Shirting Fabrics
Shirting fabrics are identified by weave. Each weave has its own characteristics and qualities. The three main weaves are plain weave, twill weave, and basket weave. Herringbone is a type of twill weave. Plain weave fabrics are usually referred to as broadcloth. The terms broadcloth and poplin are used interchangeably. We use the term poplin or broadcloth for the fine and light shirt plain weave fabrics. Another popular plain weave is end-on-end which is sometimes referred to as chambray.
The satin weave we no longer stock as it is not popular. Similarly the superfine broadcloths were also not popular. The fabrics we stock, including the colours, have been determined by our customers over the last six years. It's impossible to convey the real colour of anything via the internet. The colours we stock are the most popular colours our customers have selected in our startup store in Hanoi.
Plain weave is the most basic of three fundamental types of textile weaves. In plain weave, the horizontal and vertical threads are aligned so they form a simple criss-cross pattern. Each horizontal thread crosses the vertical threads by going over one, then under the next, and so on. The next horizontal thread goes under the vertical threads that its neighbour went over, and vice versa.
End-on-end is a type of closely woven, plain weave cloth created by the alternation of light and dark vertical and horizontal threads resulting in a heathered effect. From a distance it looks like a solid colour but close up you can see the heathered effect. End-on-end is almost identical to chambray. End-on-end BROADCLOTH is commonly used in dress shirts.
Broadcloth is the most popular fabric for dress shirts by a long shot. Cotton of all fabrics feels nicest next to the skin. Broadcloth is the king of cotton weaves in that area. It's light weight and looks crisp when pressed. It has the best wicking properties of all the cotton weaves. It also wrinkles more easily than the other weaves. 100% cotton fabrics are not transparent like polyester fabrics. However, WHITE broadcloth woven with finer threads does feel transparent to a small number of people regardless of whether they have any body hair or not. If you want a white shirt and you are worried about transparency, it's better to choose a heavier broadcloth or choose another weave such as twill or oxford. Broadcloth fabric also does not have much variety in texture except for the end-on-end/chambray weaves. It's also not as shiny and lustrous as the other weaves.
Basketweave, more commonly referred to as Oxford Basketweave or just Oxford is a similar to plain weave but instead of single threads going in and under each other, groups of vertical and horizontal threads are interlaced so that they form a simple criss-cross pattern. Each group of vertical threads crosses an equal number of horizontal threads by going over one group, then under the next, and so on. The next group of horizontal threads goes under the warp threads that its neighbour went over, and vice versa. The Oxford weave has a basketweave structure and a lustrous aspect making it a popular fabric for use in dress shirts.
Royal Oxford has a more shiny and lustrous look than plain weaves or other Oxford weaves. It is mainly used in dress shirts.
Chambray Oxford is like the end-on-end plain weave created by the alternation of dark and light threads but in a basket weave.
Twill is a type of textile weave with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs. Because of this structure, twill generally drapes well.
Herringbone, also called Broken Twill Weave describes a distinctive V-shaped pattern usually found in twill fabric. The pattern is called herringbone because it resembles the skeleton of a herring fish.
The Twill and Oxford weaves are popular shirt fabrics. They are easier to iron and don't wrinkle as easily as broadcloth. Twill has a nice drape. They both provide more texture, lustre, and shine than Broadcloth. They trap more air than plain weave fabrics and are thus warmer in colder weather.
The satin weave we no longer stock as it is not popular. Similarly the superfine broadcloths were also not popular. The fabrics we stock, including the colours, have been determined by our customers over the last six years. It's impossible to convey the real colour of anything via the internet. The colours we stock are the most popular colours our customers have selected in our startup store in Hanoi.
Plain weave is the most basic of three fundamental types of textile weaves. In plain weave, the horizontal and vertical threads are aligned so they form a simple criss-cross pattern. Each horizontal thread crosses the vertical threads by going over one, then under the next, and so on. The next horizontal thread goes under the vertical threads that its neighbour went over, and vice versa.
End-on-end is a type of closely woven, plain weave cloth created by the alternation of light and dark vertical and horizontal threads resulting in a heathered effect. From a distance it looks like a solid colour but close up you can see the heathered effect. End-on-end is almost identical to chambray. End-on-end BROADCLOTH is commonly used in dress shirts.
Broadcloth is the most popular fabric for dress shirts by a long shot. Cotton of all fabrics feels nicest next to the skin. Broadcloth is the king of cotton weaves in that area. It's light weight and looks crisp when pressed. It has the best wicking properties of all the cotton weaves. It also wrinkles more easily than the other weaves. 100% cotton fabrics are not transparent like polyester fabrics. However, WHITE broadcloth woven with finer threads does feel transparent to a small number of people regardless of whether they have any body hair or not. If you want a white shirt and you are worried about transparency, it's better to choose a heavier broadcloth or choose another weave such as twill or oxford. Broadcloth fabric also does not have much variety in texture except for the end-on-end/chambray weaves. It's also not as shiny and lustrous as the other weaves.
Basketweave, more commonly referred to as Oxford Basketweave or just Oxford is a similar to plain weave but instead of single threads going in and under each other, groups of vertical and horizontal threads are interlaced so that they form a simple criss-cross pattern. Each group of vertical threads crosses an equal number of horizontal threads by going over one group, then under the next, and so on. The next group of horizontal threads goes under the warp threads that its neighbour went over, and vice versa. The Oxford weave has a basketweave structure and a lustrous aspect making it a popular fabric for use in dress shirts.
Royal Oxford has a more shiny and lustrous look than plain weaves or other Oxford weaves. It is mainly used in dress shirts.
Chambray Oxford is like the end-on-end plain weave created by the alternation of dark and light threads but in a basket weave.
Twill is a type of textile weave with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs. Because of this structure, twill generally drapes well.
Herringbone, also called Broken Twill Weave describes a distinctive V-shaped pattern usually found in twill fabric. The pattern is called herringbone because it resembles the skeleton of a herring fish.
The Twill and Oxford weaves are popular shirt fabrics. They are easier to iron and don't wrinkle as easily as broadcloth. Twill has a nice drape. They both provide more texture, lustre, and shine than Broadcloth. They trap more air than plain weave fabrics and are thus warmer in colder weather.
